2008 chevy silverado rear sliding window not working

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I used this window for maybe the 5th time in 3 years yesterday and it quit working. I did a quick Google search and found this is a very common problem on 07 GM trucks and there is a service bulletin out on it. Has anyone else had this problem? My truck is past the 36k bumper to bumper warranty and I'm dreading how much this will cost to fix. I've had my fair share of problems with my 2007 NBS LTZ. There are too many bells and whistles for everything to stay working properly and lately every time I turn around something is no longer working. I had a battery\electrical issue at 18k miles, electrical sensor problems at 36k, my truck would not shift and the dashboard would light up like a Christmas tree. This included all of my locks going up and down and lights flickering. My rear DVD player never worked from the time I bought the truck in 2007. There was a short in the wire that would have cost me $200 had the dealership manager not taken care of it for me out of warranty. I love the looks and ride of my truck but I'm starting to wonder about the quality of materials in it. Everybody that is looking to add the power rear sliding window to their truck is making a big mistake in my opinion.

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If you have a nbs it should be a lmm engine not the lbz. Also it's most likely a broken regulator for your power sliding rear window. They go for about $72 on amazon and are pretty easy to put in

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reelcharacter

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December 6th, 2016 11:11 AM

RoadKing-1

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October 15th, 2014 12:53 AM

knarly gto

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July 6th, 2013 8:00 AM

cnterline

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March 16th, 2009 4:35 PM

gdowner

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April 7th, 2008 7:41 AM

07, adding, changing, chevrolet, chevy, nbs, power, rear, reviews, silverado, silverados, slider, sliding, truck, window, windows

4.0 out of 5 stars Works after I took it apart.
Reviewed in the United States on August 6, 2016

Upon a quick check to make sure it would fit I was skeptical from reading reviews. It looked good so I began reinstalling. Once hooked up, I noticed the device was locked up making it so couldn't pull the cords either way.I took apart the spindle wheel where I noticed how poorly packed the cable was. After straighting it out and setting the cord evenly I was able to slip the cable on the window then pop down the sides for proper installation. See images below. Pay attention to putting the cable on the window on one side popping down the guide for that side then repeating on the opposite side.I'm too stubborn to send it back and wait. So I made it work. Next time I'm going to buy a cable and reset it fully myself.

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Reviewed in the United States on June 26, 2022

I have a 2011 2500 Denali and this part is the correct replacement. I would suggest taking both seats out as getting the cable past the seatbelt loop would be very difficult without removing the drivers side seat. I used a 1/4 inch thick board and a rubber mallet to force the cable past the seatbelt loop as I pulled outward on the loop. I also remove the slider window and carrier so that I could clean the track for better performance. To remove the slider, remove the two screws in the window latch and the block in the track. The window will slide all the way to the drivers side and you can lift it out.

Reviewed in the United States on August 7, 2022

Works perfect in my silverado 07

Reviewed in the United States on July 4, 2022

Installing the part is not bad except the seatbelt bracket the engineers could’ve moved forward a 1/4 inch.You can replace this with only unbolting the passenger side of seat if you have patience. Lifting the whole seat on and off by yourself is a bear.

Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2022

Easy to make sure it was correct and easy to install same as GM factory pleased with product and shipping highly recommend

Reviewed in the United States on April 18, 2022

Installation is a bit of a hassle cause I had to remove the back seat to replace it. But overall easy to install if you pay attention to what your doing.

Reviewed in the United States on December 12, 2018

Part was exactly what I needed! Motor is usually not the problem, it's the piece for sale here. Read other answers and reviews to install. Remove both back seats after separating them. Pop off the 4" wide trim below the window. In order to remove the long section, you must remove the pulley from the end, then pull the thin cable through each side of the seat belt bracket. Pry the bracket forward some to get the cable through. You have to do the same procedure to install the new long cable. Pry open the pully piece to reseat the jacket part of the cable back inside the pulley.
You need to work the driver side first. Push the new long cable back into the metal clips that hold it. With a twisting action, insert the pully into the end of the window rail. Slide cable towards the window, be sure to get it under the black plastic clip on the rail. Slide end ball of cable into the window. Now work the Pass. side. Insert the ball into the window first, then pop the pulley into the end of the frame. You'll have to pull hard to get the pulley past the end of the frame. Pop new clip to the right of the pulley. Insert the bottom of the drive pulley into the truck frame then (after removing the yellow retainer) insert the screw to tighten down the drive pulley. Reinstall all trim pieces and seats. Be careful not to break the anti-rattle pieces on the seat brackets. Lubricate the window rails so the window doesn't drag, which could cause the drive to fail again. I actually did this step first, and opened and closed the window by hand to lubricate it.

Reviewed in the United States on March 8, 2020

Once you are able to fully access the broken part, installation is a breeze. Some what of a pain in the rear to gain full access. That was the time consuming part of this replacement. There is no instructions. For me I removed both the seats. As mentioned, you could most likely get by with just removing the passenger side seat. I decided to remove both, as I wanted the extra space to remove the plastic trim. I did not remove the drivers side seat from the truck, just moved it forward. It took about an extra 1/2 hour to remove and replace the drivers side, passenger seat. I also removed the 3 child seat harness straps as they were pressing against the trim. I removed all the trim with a 10 inch wonder bar and a 10 inch plastic shim. The biggest pain in the rear was getting the casing of the cable behind the seatbelt loop.
I managed to just use all my weight and strength to pull on the seatbelt loop and finally slide the casing behind it.
The replacement part itself worked like a charm, and honestly, once I had access to the broken part, it only took about 15 minutes and was very simple and self explanatory.

😎 JS SAYN

Reviewed in the United States on May 17, 2021

As others have commented, this is a difficult install. I had to remove both rear seats, the lower window trim behind the seats, the carseat loops, use a crowbar to bend back the middle seatbelt top bracket to get the cable past it, and take the window stop off the right side of the sliding window in order to install the cable. Worked like a charm once installed. Also, do not remove the yellow bracket on the regulator over the screw hole, this keeps the cable springs tensioned until the unit is fully installed. Tools: 10mm, 18mm sockets, Torx T50 bit for the carseat loop brackets. flathead screwdriver to remove old retaining clips (two come with the GM kit) and some trim removal tools.